Essential Flower Waxes^©
By Jeanne Rose
(updated 05/07)

        Essential flower wax is the vegetable wax (like beeswax) from the flowers, the solid material that is left after the plant scent is alcohol extracted and chilled. This separates the wax (the solid material) from the essential oil. This process and new perfume substance can only be done in the laboratory or in the perfume industry. We instruct natural perfumery people in the use of these wonderful products both in the classroom and in our home-study courses.

The production of essential wax is a result of solvent extraction that is used on delicate flowers whose scent would be destroyed by steam distillation. Only the flowers that are undamaged and are freshly picked and selectively chosen are collected and taken to the extraction plant. The flowers are mixed with the solvent, which results in the floral concrète. The concrète is then thoroughly mixed with and dissolved in high proof (95%) alcohol. Then this is chilled. The fragrant tincture and wax separates via the cold and the tincture is filtered off. The wax is collected. The alcohol tincture is treated via vacuum distillation or simple evaporation that removes the alcohol leaving the absolute (scent).

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           The Essential Wax is mixed with 100% virgin Hazelnut oil (which contains phospholipids, Oleic acid, vitamin E & carotenoids). This process carries all the valuable fatty components (carotenoids) in their original state into the raw wax that is naturally produced from the flowers. The wax becomes linked with the vegetable triglycerides. The wax is stable and 100% natural and not susceptible to oxidation, so there is no need to add any (exogenous) type of antioxidants

            1. The waxes have the melting point of the temperature of the human body. As a result, when the wax is applied, it immediately melts and creates a fine lipid-rich film that protects the skin and feels pleasant to the touch. With this low melting point, the wax can be readily combined with other ingredients used to make cosmetics without the need for high temperatures.

            2. The waxes linked to the vegetable triglycerides show cosmetic activities that are not seen in the original raw materials alone.

            3. Resulting substance is used in a concentration of 0.5-5% in cosmetic Products.

            The virgin Hazelnut oil is 100% natural and subjected to a very rigorous selection process based on the criteria of low peroxide, low acidity, correct ripeness of the nut and it is extracted in a hydraulic, cold-extraction process.  The extraction process involves neither organic solvents nor high temperatures. With this process, the phospholipids and vitamin E that are naturally present are carried through into the end product.

            There are as many waxes as there are flowers being treated by solvent extraction. Some that are available to us are Orange Flower wax, Narcissus wax, Cassie wax, Jasmine wax, Rose wax, Tuberose wax and others. Waxes can be used as part of the solid base of solid perfumes or it can be added to skin care products where the waxes properties are to soften, moisturize, soothe, as an emollient and others.

The Properties of Essential Waxes

                Cassie Flowers through the Ages. A. farnesiana, named by Linnaeus, called Cassie, Opopanax, Popinac, is now a warm weather American species, now pan tropical, introduced into Australia before European settlement.  It is the source of essential oil (the Cassie of ancient times), used for perfumery for the 'violet' scent and especially cultivated in Southern France. It is a small tree growing to a height of 4-6 meters, has irregular, twisted branches that are covered in thorns.  The flowers are round and composed of a multitude of tiny, yellow gold flowerets which are joined to the whole flower by a peduncle.  They are lusciously fragrant and smell of honey.  The honey of Acacia/Mimosa/Cassie is clear, does not solidify and has a fresh light taste. The pods of this legume contain seeds with high levels of tannins that have been used in astringent medicines to treat skin, throat and eye problems.

            The Cassie Flower essential wax is a light yellow in color, fairly solid but malleable and has the distinctive scent of the flowers. It is well tolerated on the skin in its pure form. The properties of the wax are that it is emollient and a powerful antioxidant. It contributes to ultra violet filtering actions in any preparation in which it is used. The wax is rich in carotenoids and vitamin E, and has powerful moisturizing activity because of the presence of phospholipids.

            Cassie Flower Wax is used in creams in concentrations of 5-7.5% and is added to the fat phase of the product before making an emulsion. It is used to reduce age spots, regenerate dull skin and to lighten skin.  It is particularly suitable for skin care products designed for dry skin or for age spots.  It makes a pleasant addition to a solid perfume.

            Use the Cassie Flower Wax in skin-lightening creams, sunscreens, for dry skin, delicate or damaged skin, body hygiene products, products for combating aging and for keeping the skin firm; in balms and relaxants; to purify and detoxify the skin; in moisturizers; make-up products such as foundations, lipstick as a pigment fixative and in aromatherapy and massage products.  The scent will aid the emotions while the wax will add a physical treatment to the skin.

        Narcissus Flowers through the Ages.  Ovid, the Roman poet recounts the legend of Narcissus, a young man that is so handsome that all the Nymphs fall in love with him. One of the Nymphs, Echo who always wanted the last word had her voice taken away by Juno/Hera. Echo loved Narcissus but because she could not speak to him, only echo his words, pined away until only voice remained but only in echo. Narcissus was cruel to Echo and to all the Nymphs and so Juno/Artemis or the goddess of Vengeance, allowed Narcissus a clear look at himself in a reflecting fountain.  He fell in love with the reflection, pined away until he lost his vigor, color and beauty, and died. Where he died was only to be found a flower, purple/red within, surrounded by white leaves with a lovely fragrance.  So came an end to Echo and Narcissus. An unguent balm is now distilled from the Narcissus at Chaeronea that is recommended for affections of the ears (although the scent can give headache), as a vulnerary, and for the cure of frostbite.

            Some current uses of extracts of Narcissus flowers is in the application on wounds and disfiguring spots as well as for soothing and softening the skin. The pure form of essential Wax of Narcissus seems to be well tolerated with little allergic or irritation effects. It is a soft, creamy color and can be used in a concentration of up to 10% in a sunscreen cream.  Narcissus wax increases the sunscreen protective power.  Because of high levels of carotenoids and vitamin E, Narcissus essential was is an excellent antioxidant and a powerful scavenger of free radicals.  It acts as a powerful emollient.  With the phospholipids from the Hazelnut oil, the synergy of these two substances in body care products has powerful moisturizing activity.

            It is particularly suited for products designed for the mature skin and in sunscreens or in solid perfumery products.

            Orange Flowers through the Ages.  Since the beginning of written history, Orange flowers have symbolized purity and are used by brides in their flower arrangement to represent purity and innocence.  In Roman times, Orange flowers were used only by trollops and courtesans.

            Arabs were the first to use the Orange fruit for both food and medicinal purpose. By 1000 AD, the peel, seed, twig, leaf were all extracted for scent.  The essential oil and absolute is used in perfumery and in body care products.  Neroli is the scent extracted from the bitter orange flowers.  The hydrosol of Orange flowers is called Orange flower water and used in cookery to flavor drinks, and desserts.

            The Orange tree is indigenous to India and China, was introduced into Europe during the time of the Crusades, and was introduced into the Newe Worlde after 1500.

            Orange flower wax is a soft, yellowish-orange wax with the soft, floral, powdery scent of Neroli. It imparts the flower's special soothing and softening qualities to any body care product. It is an ideal additive for delicate skin. The phospholipids from the Hazelnut oil also give the product a powerful moisturizing activity.  In addition, because of the carotenoids and vitamin E content, Orange flower wax has free radical scavenging and antioxidant activity.

             The essential wax from Orange flowers is used in many ways. It is added to shampoos for dull, lifeless hair; to body hygiene products; to hand or body creams; moisturizing products; anti-aging and restorative products for mature skin. It is added for toning and soothing products for sensitive, dull or delicate skin; body care products for purifying and detoxifying the skin; sunscreen and after-sun products; all types of make-up products (to fix the pigments); aromatherapy and massage oil products and teenage products and for perfumery products as well.

            Use the essential wax from Orange flowers in a concentration of 0.5-5%.  Incorporate it into the fat phase of your product.

            Rose Flowers Essential Wax.  Several species of Rose are used for the flower essential wax including the Damask Rose (R. damascena, the Bulgarian Rose) and the Cabbage Rose (R. centifolia). The Rose has many years of history, folklore and symbolic meaning behind it. "...Roses are a group of shrubs found in the temperate areas of the world. The birthplace of the cultivated Rose is probably ancient Persia, where the oldest Rose was most likely a deep red color which suggests the myth of the Rose springing from the blood of Adonis."  Roses come in all colors from the purist of the white to delicate pink to red to almost purples. The Otto or essential oil of Rose was first extracted in quantity in 1612 although the alchemists found it earlier. Evocative of the Rose as a symbol of purity is an ancient practice that continues in the present day. The so-called “Fête des Rosières” was started by Saint Médard in the 4th Century and still takes place today in many small French villages. The aim of the festival is to instill the idea of 'virtue' in young men and women.  Those selected are given a wreath of Roses and a small dowry.  The Rose is a source of inspiration, symbolic of love and its many species and varieties have a myriad of cosmetic and medicinal uses, mainly for skin care.

            All types of Rose preparations including those from the hip, seed, flower petal and leaves of some, the tinctures, syrups, infusions and decoctions made from these parts have purifying, regenerative, antiseptic, tonic and astringent properties. Most preparations made from the Rose including the essential wax are well tolerated by people.

            The essential wax of Rose flowers is mainly used in the treatment of skin that has been irritated or damaged because of stress, wind, cold or pollution.  It is protective and softening in its action on the skin, it has free radical-quenching and antioxidant activity and well as being a powerful moisturizer.

            Rose flower essential wax is used in special products for the care of dry, damaged and sensitive skin; moisturizers; balms. In products for purifying, detoxifying, combating aging and wrinkles; for skin or body care; body hygiene; shampoos for fine or damaged hair or for itchy scalp; make-up products of all sorts as a pigment fixative and additional moisturizer; for all types of aromatherapy or perfume products.

            Use it in concentrations of 0.5-5% in the fat phase of the product.

Bibliography:

Bulfinch, Thomas. Myths of Greece and Rome
Graves, Robert. The Greek Myths
Mabberley, D. J. The Plant Book
Massot, P and F. Merot and J. Bardot. Phospholipid Content in Hazelnut Oil blended with a moisturizing cosmetic preparation.
Product: Literature from Prima Fleur
Rose, Jeanne. The Aromatherapy Book. Frog. 1999.
——— . AROMAtherapy 2037. Winter 1997/98
——— . The Herbal Body Book. Jeanne Rose Aromatherapy.  1975, 2^nd edition 2000.